Chasing Climbing Carrots

My climbing-centric goals for 2024

Every year, I do my darndest to devise a new arrangement of goals, fresh carrots to chase, as it were, for the upcoming year. Typically, I formulate my goals based on the different categories that seem to organize my life, like my writing career (this Substack is one of those goals), finances, travel, health, and, obviously, rock climbing.

So, considering we’re here to talk about the reflective side of rock climbing, I figured I’d share the climbing-related goals I’ve designed for 2024, the carrots that I’ll chase optimistically into the new year.

1.) Commit Consistently to Physical Therapy (PT)

Sometime back in September of 2023, I sustained a left shoulder injury. The circumstances of my injury were pretty mundane. There was no epic accident– I was climbing on Whitehorse Ledge with a friend named June when I raised my hands above my head to construct an anchor system in a tree. At that moment, I felt sharp and shooting pain.

Over the remainder of the climbing season, I more or less tried to take care of the injury myself and avoid aggravating it. Now that it’s winter, I am able to focus on legitimate PT.

I’ve seen an orthopedic doctor and was diagnosed with some sort of injury in the bicep tendon, labrum, and rotator cuff area of my shoulder. I got a prescription for physical therapy and have been doing that for a week.

The focus of my PT is improving my shoulder mobility and posture and building strength to help the injury heal and prevent it from reoccurring. For now, I am committed to two sessions per week. From there, I should be able to taper off with the in-person sessions but continue rehabbing my shoulder in my personal time.

My partner, June, following the 8-pitch, ~1,200-foot Cormier-Magness Route (5.6) on Whitehorse Ledge, NH.

2.) Complete a Strength & Power Training Block

Normally, the wintertime is when I do all of my indoor training for rock climbing. Last winter, I trained three times a week and was primarily focused on building my power and power endurance.

This winter, I had planned to do something similar, but my injury and subsequent PT have taken priority. However, once I am done with the intensive side of PT and get back to climbing, I want to refocus my time and attention on getting stronger and preparing for the Spring.

Normally, when I train, I am self-coaching. Typically, I am pretty good at this. But in recent years, I feel like I’ve noticed a plateau in my progression. That’s when I became curious about doing a training plan with a professional coach.

Then, knowing my interest in this, for Christmas, my sister and brother-in-law gifted me a gift certificate for a training program with a company called Power Company Climbing. Once I am healthy and ready to train, I am really looking forward to beginning a regiment and becoming a physically stronger climber.

3.) Improve Recovery & Longevity Throughout the Climbing Season

Normally, when I am done with a day of guiding, I eat a ton of protein-dense food, maybe enjoy a beer, and fall asleep before 8 pm. This recovery strategy has served me well over the years. But I want to do better this year.

For example, this year, I’m setting the goal to get a sports massage once a month. I plan to set aside some of my tip money for this “treat yourself” type of experience. I’m hoping that by building a relationship with a masseuse, I can assist my body in rest and recovery from the physicality of guiding.

Piggybacking off the massage idea is the goal of incorporating more injury-preventative tactics into my daily work. For example, one goal is to design a quick and easy, yet effective, warmup I can do before meeting clients so that I’m actually warmed up by the time we’re at the base of a climb and it t’s time to lead.

In addition, I want to incorporate a cool-down and stretching routine for after work. 16-ounce curls of my favorite beer from the local brewery are fun and all, but they hardly help my body get ready for the next day.

4.) Participate in My Advanced Rock Guide Course/ Aspirant Exam

In terms of professional development, my goal is to participate in and pass my next course with the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA).

Currently, I am an Apprentice Rock Guide and certified Single Pitch Instructor. After successfully taking my next course, which is called the Advanced Rock Guide Course, and after passing the Aspirant Exam included in the course, I’ll get bumped to the status of Assistant Rock Guide.

This course is a big deal and a vital step forward in my preparation for becoming a fully certified Rock Guide. I applied for courses in Colorado in October. My first choice is a course located in the Black Canyon of Gunnison and Unaweep Canyon. My second choice is located in Boulder and Estes Park. The course is seven days, with a 2:1 instructor/ student ratio, and will improve my skills regarding:

“Guiding and instructing multiple clients on longer routes up to Grade V—management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, simultaneous multi-client belaying, lowering and rappelling, management of transitions, and short roping and short pitching techniques.” 

Last year, in preparation for this course, I applied for a scholarship from the AMGA. In August, I was awarded the Fallen Guides Scholarship! I am thrilled to be a recipient of an AMGA scholarship and look forward to applying it to my Advanced Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam.

Hiking out with my instructors, Steve Banks and Jeff Ward, during my AMGA Rock Guide Course in Red Rocks, NV, in November 2022.

This Year’s Goals vs. Past Years

I’ve noticed that this year’s goals have a distinct quality about them compared to previous years.

In the past, my climbing-related goals typically revolved around simpler ideas about getting stronger, chasing difficult grades, and ticking hard routes. And thus far, creating goals like that has been fantastic and really fun.

But this year, I’ve noticed that my goals are less focused on the “better, faster, stronger” mindset. Instead, it seems that my 2024 goals are more “mature” in a way.

It feels good to eliminate some of the self-inflicted pressure of getting better right now. I’m less focused on being better in the short term to accomplish goals now and more focused on repairing my body, building strength, improving longevity, and learning new skills to keep doing what I love over the long term.

What About You…

• Do you have climbing-centric goals for 2024? What are they?

• Is there a route you want to climb? New skills you want to learn?

• How can I help you accomplish those goals?