Classic Multi-Pitch Routes at the Gunks
My top 10 favorite Gunks multi-pitches under 5.9
The Gunks is a world-renowned climbing destination known mostly for its awesome multi-pitch climbs that take you to the top of the Shawangunk cliff. Along the way to the top, you enjoy intriguing climbing movement, a unique cliffside ecosystem of plants and animals, like the beautiful mountain laurel and peregrine falcon, and exhilarating exposure.
With over 600 routes in the West Trapps (not including the Nears), many of which have multiple pitches, there’s enough climbing to keep even the most maniacal climber busy for a very, very long time.
To highlight some of the best multi-pitches at the Gunks, I forced myself to select ten climbs under 5.9. But of course, there are others that I enjoy also. The following climbs are in order from left to right on the cliff, not in order of importance or favoritism.
Bear with me, as this may sound a bit like a guidebook. But I hope it gets you psyched!
1.) RMC (5.5)
There are many great two-pitch climbs in the Uberfall area of the Trapps, but RMC is my favorite. Pitch one includes a variety of improbable-looking features and interesting movement through an exciting traverse.
Pitch two features an excellent low-angle slab climbing on bomber white rock to the top. Two rappels get you down.
2.) Frog’s Head into Maria (5.6+)
The Gunks isn’t known for its splitter vertical cracks. However, the splitter hand crack at the base of Frog’s Heads stands out. After the crack, an obvious crux sequence gives way to easy and airy climbing to a stance on top of a detached miniature arch feature.
Pitch two changes in style. The route gets steeper and slightly overhung, and the holds get huge. Fun movement on positive holds brings you to the top.
From there, I like to add in pitch two and three of Maria, making the whole thing four pitches. To do so, I lower into pitch two of Maria from the top. There, you enjoy great corner climbing with stemming, laybacking, and face climbing.
For the fourth pitch, you top out via the Maria roof. This pitch is super exciting and feels hard for the grade, probably because some holds are hidden, and the movement is specific.
3.) Something Interesting (5.7+)
On the leftward fringe of the Mac Wall (the best wall in the Gunks) is a sustained and exciting climb called Something Interesting.
Done in two pitches, sometimes three, the bottom features balancey, cryptic, and powerful climbing sequences. At halfway, the route features a huge, comfy ledge where you get a first-row seat spectating climbers on the Dangler, a classic Gunks 5.10.
The second pitch has some tricky climbing off the ledge, an airy traverse, and solid corner climbing. My favorite part about the route is the private pedestal (and rappel station) you get to enjoy when you top out.
4.) Beginner’s Delight (5.4)
The name says it all. This climb is one of the best multi-pitches under 5.5. The climb is best done in three pitches. Pitch one and two have two variations to choose from.
For pitch one, I prefer climbing a splitter vertical crack off the ground. It’s more direct, but the start to the left is also good. For pitch two, I like meandering up and left through good face holds as opposed to staying in the corner and then traversing hard left.
For pitch three, enjoy a series of fun roofs and wild exposure to the top of the ridge.
5.) Northern Pillar (5.2)
This is as good as climbing gets at 5.2. Despite the “easy” grade, climbing on Northern Pillar is fun and adventurous. It’s best done in three pitches to mitigate rope drag and remain close to your partner for better communication.
At the top, you get to enjoy one of the coolest viewpoints at the Gunks. Even better, you must commit to bottomless and free-hanging rappel to get down.
6.) Raunchy into Wild Horses (5.9)
Most people climb Raunchy by itself. But when linked into the second pitch of Wild Horses, you get two really awesome pitches of sustained 5.8 and 5.9 climbing.
Raunchy features delicate slab climbing to an awesome shallow right-facing corner and finger crack. After you navigate the balancey crux in the corner, you get more fun climbing to a great ledge.
Pitch two, which is actually Wild Horses, climbs up steep and overhanging terrain. There are multiple sections with route-finding cruxes, hidden holds, and climbing on thinner crimps. The top is very exciting!
7.) Cold Turkeys into Arrow (5.8)
The Arrow Wall is one of the tallest and most popular areas at the Gunks, and for good reason– it’s absolutely stacked with classics. My favorite of which is Cold Turkeys.
Cold Turkeys climbs an exposed blocky arete feature. Down low, the climbing is easy and rompy. In the middle, there is a technical crux through orange rock. At the top, there is an overhanging jug hauling on blocky holds.
After topping out, a short walk to the left brings you below the second pitch of Arrow. Commit to a run out over the ledge to a stance below a bulge. Climb through the bulge to an upper slabby section. Then, dance through the slab on crimps, flakes, and the occasional horizontal jug rail to a crux just below the anchors on impeccable white rock.
Two rappels get you back down to the ground. But before being done, I like to lower into pitch one of Arrow or climb it on top rope after rappeling.
8.) Moonlight (5.6)
Moonlight can be done in two pitches, but sometimes I like doing it in three. Sometimes, even four. Pitch one climbs a fun slab to a small but comfortable ledge in a corner next to a tree.
Pitch two includes wonderful corner climbing. It’s long, sustained, and very high quality. It spits you out to another fantastic ledge.
After moving a little right, pitch three climbs off the ledge through rompy terrain on flakes and jugs. Once below the looming roofs, traverse hard left. You must navigate a series good holds and a little downclimbing. Trust your feet and find a hidden hold to navigate around the corner– this is very airy and mega-exposed.
For pitch four, climb up a fun finger crack with a pod to get a sinker hand jam. Keep going until you reach a leader below a corner. Make a few strenuous moves off the ledge and then top out. Walking left gets you to the raps, where you’re down in two.
9.) Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope CCK (5.7+)
This climb is one of the most well-known routes in the Gunks. There’s always a party on it and even more people waiting. But if you get up early and hit it on an off day, you can enjoy one of the coolest Gunks climbs with hardly anyone around.
Most people do it in two pitches. I’ve even seen it done in one mega pitch. But I like to do it in three pitches.
Pitch one navigates some fun climbing to a flake feature and a bulge. It tops out to a wonderful ledge. Pitch two climbs up the corner. In reality, it’s the second pitch of a nearby climb called Updraft (5.5). That’s because the original pitch two of CCK wanders out right and then back left.
Then pitch three– the money! From the corner, traverse hard right, following a series of crimps and good feet. Balance and the correct beta are critical here. After a cruxy step-across move, get established in a juggy vertical flake feature. Follow the flake while remaining as calm as possible. Then, traverse right again and pull through a bulge to a big ledge and corner.
From the top, two rappels will get you back down to your packs at the base.
10.) Bonnie’s Roof (5.9-)
There are lots of 5.9s at the Gunks, but none of them are as good as Bonnie’s Roof. This climb has it all! Normally, it gets done in two, but you can stop pitching one earlier and do it in three.
Pitch one climbs a long and awesome right-facing corner. There’s laybacking and even some jamming through this section. Once under the iconic roof, exit up and left. The climbing here is airy and physical. Pull the roof and get established in the corner above.
Pitch two traverses hard left from the belay stance. The rock is super unique through this section, featuring incut crimps and jugs. Once on the arete, navigate climbing around the corner and exit to an awesome ledge. The exit here is exciting and worthwhile.
And of course…High Exposure (5.6)
Of course, I couldn’t write a post highlighting the best multi-pitches in the Gunks without including High E. The climb is utterly classic.
Done in either two or three pitches, High E combines fun corner climbing down low, traversing, and a wild roof move way off the deck that exits to glorious climbing on jugs.
Halfway through, you get to relax on one of the best ledges at the Gunks. Then, after you top out, three rappels get you back down to the ground.
What about you…?
What’s your favorite route at the Gunks?
Which of these routes would you like to climb?
I've been saving High E for an onsite lead once I build up the experience (and the confidence!)
I really hope to experience these with you sometime. 5.9 and under; that's my style :)