How I Learned to be a Rock Climbing Guide
An explanation of my learning process with the American Mountain Guide Association
In my previous post, titled, I Went to School for Rock Climbing, I told a story about how I deploy what I learned in college and graduate school in my current career as a climbing guide. Despite what I studied (sociology) being drastically different from what I do for work (rock guiding), I’ve come to learn that the two are absolutely intermingled.
So, while the title and subtitle may have sounded facetious, I really wasn’t joking. My education in sociology positively impacts how I work as a guide, especially my soft skills.
But then I got to thinking.
What about the hard skills? Like belaying and tying knots? What about managing equipment and rescue skills? And the fancy rope tricks? Where did I learn those?
Well– that’s where the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) comes into play. Since 2019, I’ve been slowly progressing my way through the AMGA Rock Guide Program.
Explanation of the Rock Guide Program
Single Pitch Instructor
The first step in becoming a rock guide in the United States is getting your Single Pitch Instructor certification.
The Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Program teaches climbing instructors to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting.
The SPI program consists of a three-day course and a separate two-day course. In 2019, I took my SPI course at Joshua Tree National Park. At the time, I was mostly interested in taking the course so I could improve the climbing systems I was playing in purely recreational settings.
However, after the course, I became even more enthralled in pursuing structured learning and becoming a climbing guide.
One year later, in 2020, I took my Single Pitch Instructor assessment at Cedar Bluff in Southern Illinois.
On day one of the assessment, we were observed as we deployed all the hard skills an SPI should be able to do while guiding single-pitch terrain. Then, on day two, we were observed as we mock-guided real people through a day of single-pitch climbing.
Rock Guide Course and Rock Guide Apprenticeship
With an official SPI certification, I could begin professionally guiding. I completed my first season of rock guiding in Estes Park, Colorado, while working for KMAC Guides.
Besides cutting my teeth as a guide and getting my first paychecks, working in Estes Park allowed me incredible proximity to some of North America’s best rock climbing. So, while on my days off from guiding, I improved my climbing resume in places like Eldorado Canyon State Park, Lumpy Ridge, and Rocky Mountain National Park.
I guided two seasons in Estes Park as an SPI. Meanwhile, my recreational climbing helped prepare me for my Rock Guide Course (RGC).
I took my RGC in 2022 in Red Rocks National Conservation Area, outside Las Vegas, Nevada, over the course of eight days.
The Rock Guide Course (RGC) is designed for aspiring guides who have a strong rock climbing background and for instructors who are interested in improving their skills and increasing knowledge. The RGC trains aspiring guides on routes up to Grade III and 5.9 while emphasizing risk management and client rewards.
After the successful completion of RGC, I began my official rock guide apprenticeship. This meant that in addition to single-pitch terrain, I could also begin guiding shorter multi-pitch terrain.
After Colorado, I moved to Upstate New York. In 2023, I guided my first season as an apprentice in the Gunks, working for Mountain Skills Climbing Guides. I am now in the midst of my second guide season as an Apprentice.
The Gunks has been the ideal location for me to get real-time guide experience in multi-pitch terrain. I’ve enjoyed the unique opportunities and challenges that come with guiding in the Gunks.
Meanwhile, I’ve continued to stay motivated, pursuing my own personal climbing goals to prepare for the next step in my guide program. During my first year in New York, I climbed larger walls in the Adirondacks and traveled to classic climbing locations in the Northeast, like Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledge in New Hampshire.
In addition, last summer, I returned to Estes Park to climb a series of longer alpine routes at Rocky Mountain National Park. The most notable was my third successful ascent up the Diamond of Long’s Peak via a route called Black Dagger.
Later this summer, in August, Whitney and I will attempt two technical alpine routes to summit Mount Katahdin in Baxter State Park, Maine.
Advanced Rock Guide Course and Rock Guide Assistantship
In October of 2024, I will take the next step in my program by attending the eight-day Advanced Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, located on the Western slope of Colorado.
The Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE (ARGC/AE) covers the tools used when guiding and instructing multiple clients on longer routes up to Grade V—management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, simultaneous multi-client belaying, lowering and rappelling, management of transitions, and short roping and short pitching techniques.
With successful completion of the Advanced Course and Aspirant Exam, I will become an Aspirant Rock Guide. As an Aspirant, I will be able to guide larger and more technical multi-pitch terrain.
I am really excited about the (ARGC/AE). I’ve always wanted to climb in the Black Canyon. I’ve heard it’s a wonderfully intimidating place to climb. I’ve also heard from other Aspirants and Rock Guides that it’s a challenging and rewarding place to take the advanced course.
Plus, it’s been a long time coming. Last year, I was awarded the AMGA’s Fallen Guides Scholarship, which I will finally use to pay for a portion of the course.
Rock Guide Exam and Full Certification
Eventually, it will be time to take my final Rock Guide Exam. If everything goes according to plan, I will take the exam sometime in 2025. However, when I actually take the exam will depend on how quickly I can finish the prerequisites to participate.
The goals of the six-day Rock Guide Exam (RGE) are to assess and certify rock-climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of students.
During the exam, I will be expected to carry out guiding assignments the examiners give. I will serve as a guide to the examiners and the other participants on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. While acting as the guide, I will be responsible for route planning, client orientation, risk management, and normal guiding practices. I will be responsible for obtaining information about the assigned route as well as alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.
After successful completion of the Rock Guide Exam, I will be a fully certified Rock Guide with the AMGA. My certification will also be recognized by the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations.
Whenever that day comes, I will be 1,000% thrilled. To be finished with the AMGA Rock Guide program will feel amazing. From there, I plan to keep progressing. I’ve already got plans and career-related goals I want to accomplish.
Until then, I’ll just keep climbing one pitch at a time and learning to be the best guide I can be.
+1 to the powers of "structured learning". As someone that loves dabbling with a bagillion things and self-teaching lots of them, structured instruction always feels like a drug. It's a constant re-remembering for me of how motivating and rewarding programmatic learning can be. Stoked to see you in October if not sooner.
Interesting to see all the details on guide training. Let’s chat before you and Whitney climb Katahdin. I attempted Paloma IV in 2020 and I have some beta to share. Hopefully Madeleine and I can find a time to climb with you in July and we can catch up!