Sorry, Mother Nature Doesn't Give a Damn About Your Climbing Plans
30+ weekends of measurable precipitation in upstate New York
On November 17th, 2024, I was guiding a half day with a man named John. The weather was impeccable. When we climbed, we popped off extra layers to account for the increase in our body temperature from physical exertion. Then, when on the ground, we swaddled ourselves in delicious puffy jackets. We enjoyed the morning together, climbing two easy multi-pitch routes.
I knew my day with John was going to be my last day of work of the 2024 season. The winter’s first snowstorm was slated for the following weekend. However, what I did not know was that it would be the last dry weekend for 30+ consecutive weekends.
This climbing season has been wet
An article by the Times Union reported that much of upstate New York has experienced precipitation every single weekend since November 2024. Yes, you read that correctly – there has been a measurable amount of rainfall every weekend since last-goddamn year.
Wet, low-pressure systems have been forming at the end of the work week and bringing precipitation during weekends in Albany. By the time the systems move out and dissipate, the area is treated to a few more tranquil days during the workweek before the cycle repeats itself.
Meteorologists are chalking it up to bad luck. And weekend warriors all around the upstate area are taking it personally. Me? Well, I’ve been dealing with it. And it’s been exhausting.
A smooth sea never made a skilled sailor
A couple of weeks ago, I was driving to the cliff in a light rain. As I got closer, I could see that a dense fog was hanging over the cliff. Things did not look promising for what felt like the 1,000th time already this season.
Fortunately for me, the folks I was working with that day were awesome. By awesome, I mean they were young, fit, and outdoorsy. Characteristics like that bode well when conditions are not perfect.
As we hiked up to the cliff, talking about the inevitably wet climbing conditions, one of them said, “A smooth sea never made a skilled sailor,” essentially saying– they were ready to embrace the challenge.
When I heard that, I really began to understand how excited they were to be there, regardless of the weather conditions. I got the vibe that even with the day’s tricky conditions, they were going to enjoy themselves.
An enormous invisible weight dissolved from on top of my shoulders.
And enjoy themselves they did! Yes, the rock was wet. And yes, the view you normally see was ruined. But nevertheless, the cliff was beautiful. It was quiet except for the pitter-patter of raindrops falling from the trees when the wind blew. And it was empty. Everyone else was scared off by the forecast, rightfully so.
Wet weather teaches you a lot
There are numerous additional challenges that come with recreating outdoors in wet weather. You have to consider the garments you wear…the appropriate footwear…the temperature…the overall amount of rain… how long you’ll be out…thunder… lightning…
You get the picture. It’s a lot.
For climbing specifically, a sport where everything hinges upon the friction you create between your fingertips and toes and the rock, wetness increases the riskiness of the activity.
To counteract that, as a guide, I have to select terrain that is more or less “friendly” to climb when wet. I avoid lead climbing whenever possible. Instead, I set up top ropes. And if I must lead, I select routes with humongous holds. Not even a hurricane can make me fall off certain routes in the Gunks.
Movement-wise, wet terrain teaches you to move smoothly. No erratic movements. It also teaches you to trust your equipment, mainly your climbing shoes. The rubber on climbing shoe outsoles performs remarkably well when wet. Similarly, the skin on your fingers grips wet rock way better than you’d expect.
Some evolutionary biologists believe that the wrinkles that appear on our hands and feet when wet enhance surface contact and, therefore, increase friction between our skin and the terrain it comes into contact with.
All the other stuff– the ropes, belay devices, and anchoring materials– they all function, even when wet.
Nice weather never made a good climbing guide
See what I did there?
Yes, like I said, the seemingly relentless string of wet weekends this climbing season has been exhausting.
Deciphering advanced weather forecasts is a lot of work. Dealing with clients’ expectations can be challenging. Mitigating risk. Making decisions. Adapting how I climb. Selecting different routes. Drying out my equipment. It’s all extra work because of the weather.
It’s growing tiresome, but all that extra work is helping me become a better guide. But who am I kidding? Let’s get some dry weather soon, for Christ’s sake.
Move back to Colorado <3
Dude that is brutal lol. 30 weeks in a row of wet weather. I did one wet trip to the gunks - I think we climbed Yellow Ridge with some moderate trickle streams, but mostly big holds like you said.
Also, it's been sunny, dry, and 65 in Berkeley for the last 30 weeks in case you want to start guiding here too.